18 August 2008

Ulu Muda Forest Reserve




Location :
Located at the North-Eastern corner of Kedah on the Thai-Malaysia border of Northern Peninsular Malaysia.
Coordinates of the park are 6°7'16"N 100°51'36"E
You can access the Google Map here.

Natural Heritage Status:
The Ulu Muda Forests encompass the Ulu Muda Forest Reserve (105,060 ha) and Pedu Forest Reserve (15,540 ha). It represents about 35% of the total forested land area of Kedah and accounting for the largest remaining tracts of virgin forests in the Kedah. It is an area of high biodiversity value. It is located in the districts of Baling, Sik and Padang Terap in the north-east of Kedah State, bordering Thailand and about 1.5 hours drive from Alor Setar. The Ulu Muda forests also form the water catchment area for the Muda, Pedu and Ahning dams that supply water for drinking and irrigation to Kedah, Penang and Perlis. Several rivers, Sungai Teliang, Sungai Muda, Sungai Lasor, Sungai Baho, Sungai Pior and Sungai Weng drain the area. Gunung Bayu (777 m asl), Bukit Batu (953 m asl) and Gunung Batu Putih (821 m asl) are some of the highest peaks in the forest reserves (Bourke, 2000; DWNP, 1991, 1993). Logging activities were carried out along Sg Muda in the 1980s. The area experiences two dry seasons from January to February and June to Julai annually (DWNP, 1993).

Gazettement :
The Ulu Muda Forest Reserve was gazetted in 1932 as a permanent forest reserve which covers an area of about 120000 hectares to protect the Sungai Muda water catchment area for the Muda Ricefields Irrigation Project. It formed the water catchment area for the Muda, Pedu and Ahning dams that supply water to the ricefields of 100,000 ha of fertile Kedah and Perlis costal plains and drinking water for Penang. (WWF, 2005).
The Ulu Muda forest were proposed to be gazetted as a National Park under the recommendation of Stevens (1968) in 1989 but was turned down by the Kedah State Government. The area has been identified as having ecotourism potential (MOCAT, 1996). Currently, the forest reserves have been proposed for gazettement as a National Park under the National Park Act 226/1980.
Efforts are currently underway by Friends of Ulu Muda II (FoUM II) to save Ulu Muda, to prevent the social, environmental and food crisis that will arise from the proposed logging at Ulu Muda Forest Reserve.

Accessibility:
There are two main entrances to Ulu Muda Forest Reserve:
1. KOPAM jetty (Village Co-op Jetty) at Muda Lake near Gubir.
2. Old logging trail from Gulau to Kuala Lasor.

Affordability:
(as on August, 2008) No admission fee to the park.
Free parking at the Gubir Jetty.
Need a permit to enter or camp in the forest reserve. Permits can be obtained from the Kedah State Forestry Department. If you are using the services of tour guides, then they will usually obtain permits for you. No chalet facilities at present. The park is well visited and popular among the local community and tourists.

Level of Development:
Camping grounds are found along rivers but there are no proper facilities for campers in Ulu Muda Forest Reserve. A new resort development at Labua Camp has just started in August 2008. It is expected to be ready in 2009.
There is no proper jetty at KOPAM jetty at Gubir. Boats are parked along the water edge. There is only one canteen at the jetty. No utilities store and souvenir shop at the jetty.
There are at least 25 villages bordering Ulu Muda forests from Ulu Legong till Gubir. Gubir is the village nearest to the KOPAM jetty by boat into the interior of Ulu Muda Forest Reserve while Gulau is the nearest village to the upper reaches of Ulu Muda Forest Reserve by using logging trails. Estimated population at Gubir is 500 persons. Gulau about 150 persons.

Popularity:
Popular with local fishing enthusiasts and international research tourists.
It was estimated that during weekends (Fridays and Saturdays), the forest reserve was well patronized by about 50-100 persons. On weekdays, arrival might dip to zero. Peak seasons are during the May to August. Activities of tourists – 90% were anglers while only 10% were eco-tourists. (Figures provided by Local Boatmen)

Accommodation:
(as at Aug 2008) At present there are no chalet facilities at Ulu Muda Forest Reserve. A new jungle resort is taking shape at Labua Camp.
Campsites are available along Sungai Muda and the islands of Muda Dam.

Threats & Challenges:
Tourism: Unregulated tourism activities and development of tourism areas that increases stress to wildlife. Visitation to saltlicks should be promoted in a responsible manner with minimal disturbance to the saltlicks and wildlife. Restrict human activities in wildlife sensitive areas especially in saltlicks.
Garbage: With unregulated activities – fishing, poaching and tourism, garbage can be observed in all areas where there are human camps.
Enforcement: Hunting and poaching of wildlife has been rampant in this forest reserve. Animals are exposed to pressures and poaching threats. Threats could be minimized through regular monitoring and enforcement.
Logging: The Kedah State Government has reported to embark to log several forest reserves including the virgin jungle of Ulu Muda. Conservation NGOs and paddy farmers have protested that this would threaten water supply as the forest reserves are vital catchment areas. This action would threaten the 150 million year old rainforest. If trees are harvested, the catchment forest will no longer function as a source of water. Logging will lead to erosion and eventually, the Muda Dam will be silted up.
Threatened Species: According to International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. The biggest threat to threaten species (such as gibbon) is habitat loss or degradation.

Mitigation:
Need strict enforcement by Forestry Department on encroachment and poaching.
Ranger posts along the park boundary to regulate visitors to the dam and forest reserves.
The Kedah State government should uphold the directive of 18th May 2003 banning logging at Ulu Muda by the Federal Government.
A management plan should be established for the entire Ulu Muda catchment area as a State Park or a National Park to protect the rich biodiversity and conservation of the Ulu Muda forests.

Conservation:
According to scientific expedition to the Ulu Muda Forest Reserve in March 2003, there are more than half the mammal species found in the country are present, six of 10 primate species, 42 of 54 reptile species, 78% squirrel species, 53 percent bat species, 175 bird species, 7 out of 10 hornbill species. (NST 2008)
Scientists also found myriad river and lake fish and herds of elephants which make the reserve a major reservoir for wildlife. The reserve itself is over 100,000 ha in size and is spread of the Sik, Padang Terap and Baling district, adjacent to Thailand in the northeast and Perak in the south. The national importance of the Ulu Muda complex of forests was first highlighted by a WWF proposal for a Kedah Conservation Strategy in 1984 (Hutan Simpan Ulu Muda, Kedah: Pengurusan, Persekitaran Fizikal dan Biologi, 2003).
The area was also been identified as a critical area for conservation under the Economic Planning Unit’s Malaysian National Conservation Strategy in 1993. The strategy recommended that Ulu Muda be protected as a National or State park. The area has been proposed as the Ulu Muda National Park (DWNP, 1991) and as a State Park (WWF, 2002). In 1996, the National Ecotourism Plan recognized Ulu Muda as a potentially important nature tourism destination.

Wildlife Saltlicks: Ulu Muda Forest Reserve is noted for its high concentration of wildlife saltlicks. Sira Air Hangat (Hotspring Saltlick) is a unique saltlick with a hot water spring. There are more than 10 saltlicks in the Ulu Muda Forest Reserve, they include Sira Kawi, Sira Bungor, Sira Gajah, Sira Batu, Sira Kumbar, Sira Garam, Sera Kem and other saltlicks found deep in the virgin jungle.
Flora: Scientific surveys conducted have revealed that there is an abundance of flora in the area. The forests of Ulu Muda are distinct from other tropical rainforests in Peninsular Malaysia such as Endau-Rompin and Taman Negara. Ulu Muda area contains forests with Thai-Burmese characteristics. Some of the plant species are found nowhere else in Malaysia. The forest here is also a storehouse of medical plants with surveys of just small sections uncovering about 56 species. Various studies revealed Ulu Muda Forest Reserve as outstanding biodiversity richness and an importance conservation area.
Fauna: The interior of Ulu Muda Forest Reserve is probably the only virgin jungle comparable to the 130 million years old Taman Negara. It is an outstanding area for conservation of wildlife and saltlicks in this northern part of Peninsular Malaysia.Wildlife surveys conducted: 109 species of mammals. 201 species of birds including 7 species of horbills. 54 species of reptiles. 33 species of freshwater fishes. (WWF, 2002). Large endangered mammal species found in Ulu Muda Forest Reserve include Asian elephant (Elephas maximus), gaur (Bos gaurus), Malayan tapir (Tapirus indicus) and Malayan tiger (Panthera tigris jacksoni) (Baillie et al., 2004). There are 6 species of primates including two species of gibbons - white-handed gibbon (Hylobates lar) and agile gibbon (Hylobates agilis).
Caves Formation: There were numerous caves found in the interior of Ulu Muda. Many of the caves were found around Bukit Labu within the unlogged jungle of Ulu Muda. These caves are home to the rare serows.

Benefits to Local Communities:
The local communities have set up the village cooperative (KOPAM) to manage the tourism services in Ulu Muda Forest Reserve. Most are involved in boat services and guiding. A canteen managed by local is also located at the jetty.

How to Get There:
Using North-South Expressway (Route E1) and taking the exit at Gurun (Exit 173). At the first traffic light after the toll gate, turn right using route K10 heading toward east. Follow the trunk road to Sik and then continue using route K8. You will pass through the scenic Beris Dam. Continue the straight trunk road and you should join route K13 to Gubir. You will pass a small village called Gubir and then Muda Dam before reaching the KOPAM jetty or Gubir Jetty. There are no public transport services to this remote area. But a taxi is willing to take you there for a reasonable fee.

Important Contacts:
Kedah Forestry Department
8th Floor, Bangunan Sultan Abdul Halim,
Jalan Sultan Badlishah, 05000 Alor Setar, Kedah
Tel: (04) 7333844,
Fax: (04) 7310601

Malaysian Nature Society (MNS Kedah Branch)
22, Lorong 26, Taman Patani Jaya,
Sungai Petani 8000, Kedah
Malaysia

WWF Malaysia
49 Jalan SS 23/15
Taman SEA
47301 Petaling Jaya
Selangor, Malaysia
Tel: ++(603)78033772
Fax: ++(603)78035157

Ronn’s Adventures
No.4,Lorong Mengkudu 2,
Taman Bumita 01000 Kangar,
Perlis , Malaysia .
Tel/Fax: 604-9777578
H/P: (+6)019-4456578

High Adventure Travel (Kedah) Sdn Bhd
Jalan Kem Gubir, Mukim Sok, Kota Aur
08210 Sik
Kedah Darul Aman, Malaysia
Tel / Fax : 604-7522590
Email: capt_hat@tm.net.my

References:
• Focus (2008), A Wild World, New Straits Times
• http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/sites/index.html?action=SitHTMDetails.asp&sid=16048&m=0
• Management Recommendations for Wildlife Saltlicks (2005), WWF Malaysia.